16 points to look out for when buying a car

Posted on 30-05-2014 at 17:00 by sir_smokalot – 36 Comments”

Are you in the market for a car, but is a new copy out of your budget? Then you go for a twedehandsje. Also as a lay person, not a cat in the bag to buy is a short checklist is essential.

If you have these 16 points are followed you will have a very large part of the potential risks in the visor:

• General condition: inspect the car in good light. So not in a dark shed, but just outside, then you see spots and scratches much better. On a wet car you can see dull spots and minor scratches are actually not, you want a car so see if it is dry.

  The doors, tailgate and bonnet to close properly and the lock is in order.

• Exhaust: a nice sporty roffeltje is a bit different than a leaky muffler. Also a blue smoke as if from an old tweetaktbrommer with too much oil is a bad sign.

• Tires: have this is still enough profile? 1.6 mm is the lawful minimum, if they look like the rear of any M4 after a autoblogtest is worth the more time to think. A short check to aanwezigheud of a spare wheel, and the condition can also no harm.

  Also Check the tires regularly worn, crooked worn tires indicate a misalignment or a more serious problem with the suspension. Also check brand, type and size of the tires. Porsche writes, for example, tires with an N-encryption for. If there are tires from an unknown brand to sit down, realize that may be much less well than the tyres of an a-brand.

• The timing belt (and chain): how often should this be replaced? That Is what has happened, and is that also to check. Often there is also a sticker pasted in the engine compartment when that happened. When in doubt, be absolutely preventive. A broken distribrutieriem is usually a schadepost of several thousand euros.

• Liquids: How is the oil level and the oliekleur? Are the brake and coolant fluids at the right level?

• Keys: is there a spare key and does it work everywhere? In some cars hear also a card to sit with the code from the car’s immobilizer and/or plastic noodsleutels.

• Electric adjustable items: mirrors, seats, windows, etc. Take a look if everything is still working. Work in addition, all lamps and cutters yet?

• Allow an independent inspection, do, and see for yourself. Also at the inspection centres, they are sometimes lazy and they put for example the car not on the bridge at the bottom to inspect. Especially if the workshop already ramvol, it is easy to make a inspection to raffelen.

  If you have a bridge available to you, view the car from below. Who knows you will find there roestplekjes or business who just seem to gloss over.

• Motor: check to see whether the power output, no decrease know. Also check under the hood. To be clean, then there is cleaned, which is not unusual for a car in the showroom. In the other cases: look for sweat – or lekplekken to see on and around the engine block. Check at a test drive for the driving even if the engine is hot. Some cars that are not more cold start are just for the test drive by their owners even warmed up so it seems as if there is nothing to the hand.

• Test drive: brake a time with your hands of the wheel and see if the car steady on course. Vibrating brake pedals and a late engaging clutch can also doom predict. Play in the steering wheel, we also prefer not to, and a car that can move if he is out of the bends, or correctly stiff, bounces a new set of shock absorbers.

• The seller: he is who he/she claims to be, correct ascription?

  You can buy from a private individual: question on the phone to the car he sale. He does not know on which car you have, then it is potentially a disguised trader. Does not need to be, but the story that by the arrival of the baby compartment is now not more useful, than implausible.

• Registration: Originals count, copies are obscure. And see immediately if the vehicle identification number, and other data match what the papers state.

• Schadecheck: pull the deurrubbers of the metal and check for colour differences. Look for signs of flaking paint and rust around the panel joints at the front of the car. Look at color differences between the panels and the seams all the same width. A well-repaired damage without the need for the purchase of a car not to stand in the way, but the seller will hear that neat report.

• Do not impulse buy: A car you buy is often based on emotion, but make sure you don’t impulse buy. Take anyway a critical friend with you, two pair of eyes see more than one.

• Maintenance and documentation: the more invoices and stamps in the service book, the more trustworthy it is that maintenance really is carried out. When in doubt: call the garage where the car in maintenance would have been. Also, check when the next turn should be carried out and what turn that is. That cheap used car can be just on the expensive turn.

• Mileage: check the National Car Pass (NAP). Buy you from a private individual, check the mileage online at the NAP for € 2,99. Let the count in addition in the contract of sale to capture. If this post turns out to be incorrect, then you have legal options to the seller to speak.

  Further, use common sense: correct the state of the car with the mileage? Worn pedals, a smooth steering wheel or scuffing of getting in and out on his left cheek from the driver’s seat are often signs that the car has a little more experience than the vendor you want to believe.

  Demand for cars with a low mileage why that is so low. In principle, it is not logical that a diesel is on average less than 10,000 miles per year driven. At liefhebbersauto such as convertibles and sports enthusiasts, it is faster to be credible, but need not to be correct.

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